Thursday 8 May: On the street where I live: a morning stroll through northern Trastevere

I talk a lot about Trastevere, and folks have asked me for more information. The name means “across the Tevere (Tiber)” because in ancient times, the west bank of the river was not within the city limits. Being on the same side of the river as the Vatican, Trastevere came under the protection and rule of the pope after the fall of Rome. The current labyrinth of streets, allies, and multiple tiny piazzas dates to the Middle Ages. I live in a new building, and it’s 17^th century!

I took a walk this morning around my neighborhood, while it was relatively quiet. You can see some pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/danielcmack/sets/72157604944477490/. I started at Ponte Sisto, the footbridge across the Tiber that takes you downtown. At the end of the bridge is Piazza Trilussa, a small, busy square that is a popular meeting place for young people, and also the site of my local black market. From Piazza Trilussa you can go down several different streets that quickly take you into the jumbled warren that is Trastevere.

Via del Moro is a great street. Every other doorway houses a bar, caffè, trattoria, or restaurant. Most are closed in the morning, so you don’t really see them in the picture. There are some really cool shops here as well. Polvere di Tempo is an amazing little place specializing in timepieces of various types. It sells sundials, astrolabes, sextants, hour glasses, and other chronometers of all types, as well as jewelry and souvenirs. There are several interior design shops specializing in both antiques and in contemporary Italian design. At the corner of Via del Moro and Vicolo di Renzi is Forno la Rinella, my amazing pizza and bread bakery. They fire up the wood oven every morning at 5 am, and I wake up to the smell of the first batch of fresh bread. There’s even a little palestra (gymnasium) on this block. It’s about the size of my single room apartment, and does a brisk business. Further down Via del Moro are more bars and eating establishments, several shops for clothing, jewelry and accessories, and a bakery that specializes only in chocolate! I’ll have to get pictures of this place when it’s open. The street then takes you to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, the heart of the district, and favorite hangout of the trasteverini. Going back to Piazza Trilussa, our gateway into northern Trastevere, you walk down Via Benedetta/Via di San Dorotea, past several designer boutiques, and finally come to the most excellent wifi caffè, Good. Good is comfortable inside and outside, has a fun and friendly staff, offers great coffee and food at decent prices, and has free wireless that works most of the time. All this, and the music of my college days too! I haven’t heard this much Human League and Thompson Twins since I lived in Youngstown in the 80’s. They also play some great tunes, like early B52’s, Violent Femmes, Ramones, and The Smiths. And of course, every third song is Madonna. Just down from Good is a local fruit stand I go to a lot.

Further down the street you see the Porta Settimiana, once a gate in the old papal walls. Via Garibaldi and other streets lead uphill out of Trastevere to the Gianicolo, the Janiculum Hill, whose summit houses the American Academy in Rome, monuments to the heroes of Italy’s unification in the 19^th century, and many luxury villas, some still private residences. Turning the other direction, you head back into the heart of Trastevere, where Vicolo del Cinque, Via della Scala, and other cobbled roads meander through the district. Every block or two is a little piazza, usually with a church. I am within a five minutes’ walk of at least a dozen Catholic churches: Santa Maria in Trastevere, San Crisogono, San Calisto, San Egedio, San Dorotea, San Giovanni de Malva, Santa Maria della Scala, San Francesco a Ripa, and several others. The first two (S.M. in T. and San Crisogono) are historically and artistically important, and the others all house at least some art or have historical significance of some type.

Past Piazza di Santa Maria you go through Piazza San Calisto and finally come to Piazza San Cosimato. This square hosts the weekday open air market from 7 am to 1 pm. You can get fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers, and other produce here, as well as small household goods. I do a lot of shopping here.

I love this little neighborhood in Trastevere. The morning is a good time for a walk, because it’s pretty quiet, probably because everyone was up partying until 3 am the night before. If you ever come to Rome, make sure you schedule some time in Trastevere. You won’t find more local color and good food cheap anywhere else in Rome, or on earth.